Archive for the ‘Sword Rants’ Category

The Benefits of Hand Forging

Friday, October 22nd, 2010

hand forged bladesWhat really are the benefits of forging a blade?

Forging is more flexible in terms of what you can achieve. Forging also refines the structure of the steel.

Drop forging and rolling does indeed impart some of the benefits of forging to a stock removal blade, however. once you start grinding away material, the grain is interrupted and any benefits are minimized or lost.

Forging, and in particular, low-temperature forging aka austenite forging, allows the grain to follow the shape of the steel to an exacting degree (assuming a skilled smith). I personally austenite forge all of my blades. That involves forging the steel below its critical temperature (before it loses its magnetism at the critical temperature). Grain growth due to high heat is minimized and the steel gains tremendous toughness and edge-holding ability. My hammer blows are precise and the forge-finished blank has a smooth surface.

After profiling and forging the tang, the edge bevels are forged and before finishing the blank I go over every blade surface with a series of rapid, precise, and hard hammer blows to really refine the steel grain structure. I have taken years to refine my hammering technique to achieve very specific results. Each alloy needs to be handled a little differently and you have to understand how to work the steel you are using.

hand forged knives, handmade knives, medieval swords, bladesmithingWhen I heat-treat, the steel is brought up to the critical temperature slowly and held only long enough to reach an even temp, then quenched in the appropriate medium, usually peanut oil or a mixture of 10w30 and transmission fluid. Tempering is done immediately. All blades are differentially tempered for a harder edge and softer spine and tang.

There are records of blades being ground back in the 13th century using massive wheels powered by water. I have seen some grinders claim that this is proof that stock removal makes a perfectly good blade and has a long history, what they neglect to mention is that the other half of the woodcut shows smiths FORGING blades! They are obviously using the wheels to rough grind and polish blades.

I do not have a degree, but I entered into this craft with an open mind and looking at everything I could find on the subject. I have done and continue to do as much research as I am able. My experience has shown me that aus-forging really works well. My guess is that those who claim it provides no benefit either have not done it or haven’t done it right. Some displacement of steel takes place of course. It has to, but they are ignoring what happens to the grain during this lower temp forging. This minimizes grain growth and maximizes the benefits of forging.

I have heard it argued that the only thing that affects a blade’s quality is the heat-treatment, not forging. But I must point out that if forging didn’t have some benefit, why is it that virtually every world-renowned chef, woodcrafter, and collector specifically desires hand-forged blades? Why is it that in every engineering manual it discusses the benefits of forging, whether by machine or by hand, as being grain refinement, allowing the grain to follow the profile of the item which increases the shock absorption and strength of the piece? Why do my hand forged blades withstand a significantly larger amount of abuse than my ground blades? They have the same heat-treating, are of the same steel and have identical dimensions. Yet without exception, my hand forged blades outperform the ground ones in all respects.

hand forged swordsWhy is it that for the parts that human lives are depending upon such as in airplanes, the parts are forged? In my experience it is preposterous to assume that forging provides no benefit.

Stock removal can make a sound and durable blade. Period. No question about it. Stock removal relies entirely on the alloy properties and the quality of the heat-treat. I have not, nor will I ever say that grinding a blade cannot make a high quality blade. I do say that proper and skillful forging can create a superior end product. Will most people notice the difference these days? Probably not. Does it matter to me? Absolutely! My objective has been and always will be to make the finest quality blades that I am able and to me that means starting with forge, hammer and anvil.

Katanas, Katanas, Katanas

Friday, August 27th, 2010

japanese katanaOkay, this is definitely a sword rant. I am so sick and tired of all of this hoopla and crap about “katanas”. The absolute donkeytwaddle that is continuously spread about this weapon could supply a fertilizer factory for a year. Let me qualify my statement by saying this: the finely crafted traditional Japanese katana is a superb fighting instrument with a very specific purpose and narrow set of variables for which it was designed. For this purpose it fulfills the task admirably and honorably.

Having said that…

I am nauseated by the countless articles and comments I see spread across the web concerning the “amazing” and “magical” properties of the katana. Cutting a car door in half? The old story about cutting a 50 caliber machine gun barrel in two? How about that crap about dropping a piece of silk on the upturned edge of the mystical katana and the silk being sliced in twain? Let me stop laughing for a second. Steel is steel. Certain alloys, methods of construction, and heat-treating can allow it to have some tremendous toughness, cutting ability, or both but it still has limitations. I have been a live steel combatant for 18 years and have been forging blades for the same length of time. I have seen old originals and the latest high-tech steels with complex heat-treating regimens. I have yet to see a sword blade of any design, alloy or heat-treatment cut a machine gun barrel, or even anything close to it, in half. There are are number of videos and pictures out there on the net photo-shopped with varying amounts of skill that depict the supposedly miraculous cutting ability of the katana. I also think that the comparisons between katanas and longswords is usually quite laughable. Apples and oranges folks. Even still the tests are rarely conducted with a scientific precision. Most often these “tests” are conducted with a predicted and desired outcome and the testing reflects this. Search long enough for an answer and you will find it.

Let me state once again what I have said in a previous article (Medieval European Swords Vs. Japanese Swords)

“The Japanese katana is designed to slice and cut. To accomplish this, the edge must be left very hard from the heat-treating process to retain a very sharp edge. This very hard edge is thus brittle. The katana was not designed to encounter hard materials such as metal armor and other metal weapons on a regular basis.”

If you look at historical accounts of Japanese sword testing you will find testimony of being able to slice through  one, two or even three and in rare cases five bodies of condemned prisoners at various points. These unfortunate test specimens were almost universally in minimal clothing and certainly not armored. There are a number of accounts of samurai concerned about chipping and breaking their swords. This means that it must have happened frequently enough to be an issue. Finely crafted swords made of top quality materials of any cultural background are certainly formidable instruments of combat. Not just Japanese katanas.

Okay, now as for all the “handmade” stainless steel or 1045 steel katanas available out there. Excuse me while I barf. Just because you saw it in “Kill Bill” or “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” doesn’t mean it is real. Come on people, get a grip on reality. I am the first to admit that amazing things can be accomplished and that indeed blades can have an energy or life that could quite possibly improve (at least in the wielder’s mind) the performance of a blade. There is more to this world than the air we breath and the sword we hold. But cutting silk scarves when dropped across the edge?!?!?!?? I am well known for producing exceptionally sharp edges on my knives and swords and out of sheer curiosity I have conducted this test myself. A friend who happens to be a knife collector and professional jeweler for over 30 years has looked at the edge of my blades with his jeweler’s microscope and commented that they possess the finest and sharpest edges he has ever seen. When I dropped the silk did it slice? No. I have conducted this test with an original 16th century katana of the Muromachi period. This weapon was exceptionally sharp and very finely polished. The silk simply slid off of the blade. Basic physics folks.

I know we no longer live in a time where the sword is a standard weapon on the field of battle. It can be very difficult to sort through the morass of hype and literary sewage out there. But if we take a step back and take a careful look at what is really going on, we will see that beyond the flashy brain-draining mystical propaganda aimed at draining us of our souls and the currency in our pocketbooks is a faint glimmer of the truth. It is still there people. We have to really look hard to find it, but you will eventually.

Sword Rants

Saturday, July 24th, 2010

Okay that’s it, I’ve had enough! I’ve been looking at some of the available “information” out there on the web about swords and steel. There are some truly wonderful sites with valuable information and critical analysis of steels, forging techniques, and construction methods, such as www.knifeknowhow.com. There are also some great sites trying hard to dispel the myths about swords and provide some real information about selecting a decent sword for various price ranges, etc. such as Sword Buyer’s Guide.com.

Unfortunately there is still a massive volume of crap out there with no basis in reality and relying upon an ignorant and testosterone-charged buyer. I think this is unfortunate for the growing number of those that are truly interested in swords. I have found that more people are becoming interested in real, well-made swords rather than wall-hanger garbage. Unfortunately the terms “hand-made”, “battle-ready”, “functional”, and “real” have become so over-utilized and applied using the most ambiguous of qualifying criteria, that they have lost much of their meaning.

I’ve seen page after page of absolutely cheap garbage “swords” (or as one site I agree with terms it “sword-like-object” or slo) that are most often ground out of stainless steel or mild steel, rarely heat-treated, or if so, heat-treated improperly, with “cast-metal” (usually a zinc or pewter-derived alloy) fittings and the most frightening methods of construction that are in many cases outright dangerous. These disasters are almost always ridiculously heavy and have the most horrid handling characteristics. They are even calling 1045 a high-carbon steel. For those of you who are unfamiliar, 1045 is a carbon steel with 45 points of carbon in the mix. This is barely sufficient to allow shallow hardening of the steel. Tempering of these blades is unnecessary because there is not a high enough ratio of carbon to iron (ferrite) in the mix to allow full depth hardening even in thin cross-sections.

1050 is what most consider to be the minimum carbon content for blades in general. I use 1050, 1095, or 5160 (a 60 points of carbon low alloy spring steel) for swords and axes, and 1095 for knives and daggers. Stainless steels are totally inappropriate for sword blades. Their alloy content is such that they are much too brittle in most cases if they are heat-treated to a respectable edge-holding ability. Makers compensate for this by making the blades far too thick and then tempering them too soft. Are these swords? Not in my opinion. They are sword-like-objects. Its one thing to want to make a living and generate sales. This I understand, however, deliberately deceiving the customer into believing that a hunk of materials that look like a sword is a sword is irresponsible at best. I give more credit to my fellow human beings.

We do not live in a world anymore where the sword is the pinnacle of weapons development. No longer do the armies of the world meet each other on the field and hack away with sword, axe, and mace. The average person is far less well-acquainted with what real weapons are. Therefore, I feel it is the responsibility of those of us who have an enthusiasm and love of these things to help educate the general buyer.

I have been making and using swords for almost 18 years now. This does not make me an expert, necessarily, however I do know from practical experience what kinds of stresses real weapons are subjected too. And the fact is that some materials are better than others for certain applications. Some construction methods work and others don’t. Ignorance is not the problem. Lack of quality information and deliberate dissemination of inaccurate material purely for financial gain IS the problem.

In this category I will attempt to address some of the myths and lies commonly circulated about swords, steel and weapons in general and supply accurate answers. Welcome one and all to the SWORD RANT!

Blade Fullers

Thursday, July 1st, 2010

What is the purpose of the blade fuller? The fuller is a groove forged or cut into the steel of a blade. Contrary to the silly but persistent myth it is not a “blood groove” and has nothing whatsoever to do with letting the blood flow or breaking the suction from a wound. The fuller accomplishes several things: it lightens the blade; it increases the stiffness of wider blades; and it allows a blade to have thicker edges for toughness.

Lightening the blade is rather obvious. Less steel, less weight. The number and width of the grooves varied considerably. In general early period pieces had a single wide fuller on each side of the blade and later period pieces had more narrow fullers. Fullers weren’t always positioned directly opposite each other on either side of the blade although on blades prior to about 1550 A.D. this was overwhelmingly true. Viking swords in particular are typical in having a single wide fuller on opposite sides of the blade.

If you have a wide blade, that is one that is more than about 2 inches wide, depending upon the thickness of the blade it may lose a bit of stiffness due to the necessarily long and thin bevels. One way to solve this is to have a fuller. By adding a fuller on a wide blade you can in effect create two spines and increase the stiffness of the blade by having shorter, thicker bevels.

One last bonus of having a fuller is that by placing the spine closer to the edge you make the bevel thicker and this increases the strength of the edge by having more material present. Can you have too much material near the edge? Definitely! Too much steel creates too thick of a bevel and seriously (no pun intended) cuts down the blade’s ability to move through a target.