Archive for the ‘Knives’ Category

Handmade Knife Handles

Sunday, August 29th, 2010

handmade knife with dymondwood handle

The Northwoods Guide with a dymondwood handle

A handmade knife handle is, in my humble opinion, the second most important aspect of a knife design. Like any tool, where you hold it determines how frequently you will use it. You can have the most useful blade design with the best steel and heat-treatment in the world and with a shoddy handle, you’ll pass it up for something more comfortable. At best a poorly designed handle is uncomfortable and tiring to use; at worst it can be downright dangerous.

There are a number of “art” knives out there with various projections and spikes in the attempt to make the piece look more aggressive or scary. To me they look ridiculous. In more cases than not these goofy looking pieces have spines, spikes, points, or blades that invade the actual gripping area. Do the designers and makers of this stuff actually intend this stuff to be handled? Honestly, in some cases they do not. However, I have not seen any warnings of cautions as to the wield-ability of these KLO’s (knife-like-object’s). I personally know individuals who have seriously lacerated themselves when trying to use these things. These objects are perfect examples of how a handle should not be designed.

The elements of a comfortable handle are the dimensions, the materials, the angle in relation to the blade, and the construction method. A well designed grip needs to be of a comfortable length, width and thickness. With handmade knives, this is less of a problem because the maker can customize the dimensions to suit the customer. The angle in relation to the blade depends upon the design of the blade and it’s intended use. Look at the difference in grip angle between a kukri and a kitchen knife. Different functions, different design requirements.

The grip material is important because this is what actually makes contact with your hand. It should be comfortable to hold for extended periods, be able to withstand the stresses that the blade will be subjected to and provide a sturdy purchase for your hand. The grip material should also look nice as well, though I would consider this secondary to durability and comfort. In the modern age we have a large variety of materials to suit just about any purpose imaginable. There is a massive range of manmade handle materials such as the various micartas, dymondwoods, plastics, rubber, carbon fibers, phenolics, metals, synthetic cord, etc. and they all tend to be very stable, less susceptible to the elements and time but as a rule are generally plainer. Natural materials include wood, bone, ivory, antler, horn, shell, leather, natural rope or cording and stone. Natural materials are generally far more attractive and with a little more care, will last for decades or even centuries.

To me the natural materials are the most desirable. There is a certain beauty and depth to a fine piece of wood or antler that cannot be duplicated by a machine. Since the majority of my work tends to be historically based, natural materials are more than just desirable, they are a necessity. Natural materials, especially woods, do generally need some type of sealant or surface treatment to protect the material from moisture, weathering, or wear.handmade knife hardwood handle material

Manmade materials usually do not require any sort of finishing treatment after polishing. The composition of the material itself provides the finish. Manmade materials are stable, durable, resist stresses quite well and can be quite comfortable. Indeed certain applications almost require the use of manmade materials. Diving knives for example should have a grip that is impervious to water and swelling. It should also have a surface that does not become too slippery when wet. Many of the plastics and rubbers are ideal for this application. Moist humid environments might also require the use of a laminated material such as dymondwood. Dymondwood is made by compressing hardwood veneers to 25% or less of their thickness and impregnating with various resins. It is dense, heavy, durable, hard, will not warp and is impervious to mildew. It is dyed various colors and can be quite attractive. However I still feel that a truly fine piece of hardwood wins against any manmade material with regards to being pleasing to the eye.

The method of attachment of the grip to the blade can make a difference as to what materials can be used. The method must be durable, not allow any looseness or rattling, and be able to withstand the stresses for which the piece was designed to be subjected to. Gluing, pinning, threading, riveting all have their pros and cons. The method must fit the materials and overall design.

It behooves any custom maker or customer to look at the design of the piece as a whole. The blade and the hilt. A handmade dagger has a different set of design parameters than a kitchen knife and so to a greater or lesser extent this dictates what options are available for handle design and material. So it is for every blade. But remember that the grip must first and foremost be comfortable or you won’t use it as often.

The Feel of a Handmade Knife

Friday, August 13th, 2010

Many people say that there is a distinct difference between a machine made knife and a hand forged blade produced in the old world manner of anvil and hammer. Some would argue the major differences arise from the nature of the materials involved or the shaping of the blade itself. This is a long standing debate, but what must be realized is that there is much more to this argument than meets the eye.

A piece of the bladesmith’s soul is forged into every blade. The ancient art of forging blades carries a sliver from the soul of every smith into the work. The romance of the bladesmithing profession, steeped in mystery and secrecy for centuries, imbues some metaphysical essence into the steel. Thousands of people notice the difference between a handmade blade and a machine made blade. There is a definite change in the steel and myself when forging a blade from beginning to end. As if a part of me goes with every blade made. Perhaps the extraordinary abilities of such swords as Durendal and Excaliber comes from the soul and hands that forged them.

A deep connection to the past, possibly even past lives, is awoken when holding a hand forged knife or crafting a blade by hand. It is more than just my passion for history. It is more than just an elemental kinship with the materials involved, for we humans contain iron and carbon in our construction just as steel does. That “good” or “right” feeling that we detect comes from more than just the base matter of composition. It is a metaphysical or theological connection to all that ever was and all that is. The experience is certainly positive. A deeper connection to our history and our humanity is made by virtue of the simple physical contact. It stirs the soul, gives us a rush of adrenaline, and causes the eyebrow to rise in response to the primal and barely conscious perception of collective human connection.

We have all picked up a blade that just didn’t feel right. It felt “dead” for lack of a better term. Where has the life gone? Did it ever have one? Knives churned out in the hundreds by the industrial machine lack the care and soul of a handmade blade. Without a caring, living, breathing craftsman (or woman) there can be no soul in the blade. While a machine made blade can be for all intents and purposes “perfect” in symmetry and proportion, it also lacks the feel. The little idiosyncrasies of hand craftsmanship give the handmade knife a character and uniqueness unable to be duplicated by a machine. While not “perfect” from a mathematical standpoint, the handmade knife is superior in more than just mechanics. Just as with a favorite tool or item of special significance, the handmade knife gives a certain level of comfort and security to the owner. The owner indeed bonds with the blade’s soul and the two work more efficiently as one.

Those little feelings not perceptible by the eye are what make the true difference. Even between two top-quality knives, one handmade, the other machine made, the handmade knife feels different; it feels better. That feeling is what makes you want to fight the forces of chaos, even if it is in your own backyard. It quickens your pulse and puts a spring in your step. Your nostrils flare and your muscles flex. Cutting vegetables or make-believe trolls. Defending hearth and home. While not every handmade blade may be physically beautiful, the light within is the true beauty.

Medieval Knives

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Medieval KnifeOne of the most basic of humankind’s tools is the ubiquitous knife. The knife can be found in a dizzying variety of materials, styles, and functions. Throughout history and all across the world each culture has devised their own versions of the knife. The main components of a knife are the blade and the handle. From there it gets much more interesting.

Throughout the middle ages people carried knives on a daily basis. Most of these personal knives were somewhat reminiscent of a modern steak knife in appearance. They were handled in a wide variety of woods and metals. The handles were often decorated with pins, inlay, carving, or fancy and exotic woods. Some had bolsters, but most seem to have been bolster-less. Two or three pins often held the handle material to the tang. The blades were most often less than seven inches in length  and under an inch wide. Decorative file work and engraving were popular.

These types of knives were used for eating and light utility tasks. The sheaths were made of leather wrapped around the knife and stitched up the middle of one of the flat sides of the blade. The sheaths were often carved for decoration. There was often a long leather thong to secure the sheath to the belt.

Obviously the more affluent would carry knives of finer make and materials than the less fortunate.

Then , as now, knives were used for all manner of tasks. Eating; preparing meals; carving wood; sewing; etc. They would be made from as high a quality of steel that they could afford or was available. Most of the medieval knives that I craft here at Forged In Time are hand forged from1095 high carbon steel with ATS-34 stainless steel as an option for those who don’t want to worry about rust. Most of the handles are made from a nicely figured ash, birch, or black walnut with a dark stain. The blades often feature decorative jimping (file-work) on the back and a clean polished edge bevel. These handmade knives are designed primarily to cut and slice rather than chop. Their balance and light weight makes them easy to handle and carry.

An Old-Fashioned Utility Knife from the Medieval Period

Thursday, June 10th, 2010

Medieval Utility Knife

A Utility Knife From the Medieval Period

This is a medieval style knife that I made recently. It has a good sturdy feel to it. The blade is 5 inches long and 1 and 1/16 inch wide and 1/8 inch thick. The hilt is made of ash and nickel silver and is 4 1/4 inches long. It weighs 7 ounces It does have a dark brown leather sheath as well. It swallows the knife halfway up the handle.

Durable Assembly – Practical Design

Although I say this is medieval styled, it would actually fit into just about any period as a personal utility knife for a man or woman. The blade is 1095 high-carbon steel and will hold an edge quite well. The bevel is of the modified appleseed or “Moran” edge.

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What Makes a Forged in Time Knife Better?

Monday, January 19th, 2009

he main difference is in the method used to shape them. Most knives are made by what is called the “stock removal” method, a nice euphemism for simply grinding out a blade. These knives are made by taking a bar of steel and simply grinding away material until you have the desired shape and dimensions. With this method, the knife will not have the toughness and edge- holding ability of a hand-forged knife.

Custom Folding Knife

Custom Folding Knife

t Forged in Time, we hand-forge every blade. That means we heat the steel in a coal forge to an average temperature of 1900° Fahrenheit and shape it by striking it with a hammer against an anvil. This method does two things: it increases the toughness (shock absorbancy) and refines the grain structure. By hammering the steel, the grain structure of the steel is fractured and compacted, forming smaller carbides that improve the edge-holding ability of the blade.

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